Day 1: Tirana - Kruja - Shkodër
After arriving in Tirana we proceed to the historical heart of Albania: Kruja. In the Middle Ages, an Albanian aristocrat founded his own principality here for the first time.This is also the place where the national hero Skanderbeg successfully defended thee fortress against the invading Ottomans until his death. Gjergj Kastrioti, as his real name implies, plays a major role in Albanian self-image. The museum dedicated to him in Kruja Castle, which was built during communism by Enver Hoxha to strengthen Albanianism, gives us the best possible introduction to a theme that we will encounter again and again during our journey. After a stroll through the traditional bazaar, where we can see carpet weavers at work, we drive to our daily destination in the north, Shkodër, where we can recognize the Italian influence. Apparently far away from home we are looking forward to some surprising experiences on the fascinating Balkans.
Day 2: Shkodër - Durrës - Berat
At the castle of Shkodër, once surrounded by three walls and with a splendid view of the Albanian Alps, we learn why it is called Rozafa - and encounter a legend that appears in various variations throughout the Balkans. Durrës is the country's most important seaport, situated on the Adriatic Sea, where the largest amphitheatre in the Balkans was discovered in 1966. When we meet a leader of the Bektashi Tekke we come to philosophize. Founded by a Sufi and mystic in Asia Minor, this order has enjoyed great popularity in Albania since the 19th century. We continue inland to Berat, the city of 1000 windows. We enjoy the view of the illuminated facades at dinner and have a first sip of Raki. Here we spend the next two nights in our historic hotel with charm of a bygone time.
Day 3: Berat
The city, whose old center is a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site and, because of its colour, meantime it is also called Belgradi - Slavonic for "white city" - has enough sights and atmosphere for a whole day. Together we explore our district Mangalem, an outstanding example of the preserved Ottoman architectural style. In Berat, in contrast to other regions of Albania, we generally find maintained buildings from the time of the Ottoman occupation. Therefore, mosques stand next to Orthodox churches.
The works of the famous Albanian icon painter Onufri can be admired in the museum inside the castle walls. Even during the rest of our free time, we never become tired of strolling up and down the stone, authentic lanes and imagining the life of a few centuries ago.
Day 4: Berat - Gjirokastër - Sarandë
We move further south through beautiful mountain valleys. We leave behind us the alleged birthplace of Ali Pashas - the famous Ottoman military leader with personal desires for expansion - and drive to the UNESCO-protected city of Gjirokastër, known for its former Ottoman villas, which look like small fortresses. This city has also originated great names, such as the internationally renowned writer Ismail Kadarë or Enver Hoxha himself - whose birthplace, with its meticulous interior furnishings, now clearly shows the city's lifestyle. But we can also enter a properly inhabited house: Invited to a traditional coffee, we watch the owner as she crushes the beans herself in a mortar and boils the powder. The further we approach the southern border, the more visible is the influence of the Greek minority in this heavily mixed area. We pass bilingual road signs and see not only the old Orthodox churches but also such newer ones. Towards evening we reach the Mediterranean town of Sarandë and enjoy the view of the bay and the Greek island of Corfu from the castle hill.
Day 5: Sarandë - Butrint - Radhimë
As is so often in the Mediterranean region, Albania is also home to the usual suspects of historiography... with the difference that the ruined city of Butrint still has numerous undiscovered archaeological treasures to offer! Without haste we walk between Greek temples and Roman mosaics before the coastal scenery draws us into the spell. The drive along the Albanian Riviera offers us one of the highlights of this tour: unspoilt coastal regions, sandy beaches and turquoise water. As a nice contrast: the ride up to a pass 1000 m above sea level and through fragrant pine forests. On our way to Radhimë we see the typical fruit and honey sellers on the side of the road who offer their products for sale. We stay overnight in a beautiful hotel by the sea and enjoy the sunset.
Day 6: Radhimë - Apollonia - Tirana
The journey back to the north has definitely begun... On our way there we pass the coastal town of Vlorës: only 70 km away from Italy, this port was the biggest exodus point of many thousands of Albanians who sought a better life after the liberalisation in 1991. The visit of Apollonia, a former Doric and flourishing colony under Roman protection, takes us further back. An archaeologist explains to us how much satisfaction one feels about discovering new finds every day. In the monastery of Ardenica we might be told about the temple of Artemis, which is believed to have stood in the same place. At the end of the day we reach the lively capital Tirana, where we spend the last two days of our trip.
Day 7: Tirana
A famous, but still not much visited city. We are looking forward to getting our own picture of the town! Without classical sights of international prominence, we discover for ourselves what makes Tirana so special: now colorful, even cheerful-looking prefabricated blocks of flats next to Italian-influenced buildings from the post-Fascist era. The neglected pyramid, former mausoleum Hoxhas and symbol of the break with the communist era next to Ottoman mosques - and next to it advertising posters with half-naked women. The mushroom-shaped bunkers of Hoxhas may make us smile - at the meeting with a contemporary witness of communism and dictatorship, we learn more about it. We also visit the market - before we enjoy our evening trip with strong swallows of the popular Raki.
Day 8: Departure
At noon we drive to the airport to start our journey back home after leisure time in the morning.