Day 1
Individual check-in for the scheduled flight to Albania.
After arrival in Tirana transfer to the hotel, room check in.
The town at the foot of the Dajti Mountain forms the transition from the plain to the hilly landscape. The Adriatic coast is about 30 kilometres away. In the south and west, Tirana is surrounded by hills that form a green belt around the city with the Dajti mountain. In the northwest a plain opens up. The river Tirana runs along the northern outskirts of the city. A few kilometres south, the Erzen river passes Tirana. The city centre is crossed by the river Lana. A small artificial lake is located in the Great Park on the eastern edge of the city centre.
After the end of socialist Albania, at that time the people could not even freely choose their place of residence, a strong rural exodus began, especially from the poor north. One of the reasons why a striking difference developed between rich and poor. While the prices in the modern restaurants in the city centre are far above the national average and many new villas and high-rise buildings for the upper class have been built, tens of thousands of people live in new housing estates on the outskirts of the city without adequate infrastructure. Immigrants have often illegally occupied land and built simple houses without running water, electricity or proper access roads. The children who live in these areas are usually unable to attend school, as they are only present in the older districts.
The history of the city goes back at least to the 6th century, when Justinian had a fortress built. A real settlement was first founded in the 17th century under Ottoman rule: in 1614 a local feudal ruler built a mosque, baths and a market at the crossroads of two trade routes and called it "Tehran". Tirana remained small and insignificant for a long time until it was designated as the capital city at the Lushnja Congress in 1920. Soon afterwards, a small town with a few thousand inhabitants became the largest and most important city in the country. King Zog let a palace be built here and with Italian help ministries and a magnificent boulevard were created.
During the Second World War, partisans and the German Wehrmacht fought for several days for the town. Numerous historical buildings were destroyed, including the most important mosque, which was not rebuilt.
The communist leadership continued the expansion of the capital. In addition to industrial complexes (especially food and machine factories), numerous educational institutions (foundation of the university in 1956) and cultural centres (opera, museums, film studios) were also built.
On February 20,1991, demonstrators overthrew the larger-than-life statue of Enver Hoxha on Skanderbeg Square. After democratization, the cityscape changed quickly. Buildings were erected illegally everywhere. Many inhabitants of the rural regions settled on the outskirts of the city. In the city centre several shops, cafés and restaurants were built. From 1999 onwards, the illegal buildings in the city centre were demolished and the green spaces restored.
The townscape is partly oriental, partly Italian from the inter-war period, but mostly characterized by communist prefabricated blocks and numerous slums. In recent years, the facades of entire streets in the city centre have been redesigned in shrill colours and wild patterns.
Some of these houses are now reminding us of Hundertwasser buildings. These controversial "painting actions" by the mayor and artist Rama at least mitigated the communist sadness inherent in many prefabricated buildings and many unplastered houses. In addition to numerous cafés and restaurants as well as a number of restored green areas, the Great Park in the south invites you to linger.
In the afternoon the first sightseeing tour in the centre of Tirana. From time-honoured bazaars to trendy bars, from typical prefabricated blocks from the Hosha era to modern residential buildings of the present time, the spectrum of Tirana - a truly colourful mix....
The landmark of the city is the equestrian statue in honour of Skanderberg on the square of the same name. The Et' hem-Bey mosque with its 35 m high clock tower next to it is also famous. Other remains of Ottoman times are rare: The Ottoman stone arched bridge Ura e Trabakeve from the 18th century and the walls of the castle, some of which date back to the Justinian period, have been preserved.
The National Museum provides a comprehensive insight into the country's history from prehistoric times to the present day. The mosaic façade at the entrance shows the victory of the Albanians over the occupying powers and the march into independence. The most beautiful exhibits are the goddess of Butrint and the Beauty of Durres, the huge mosaic of a woman's head from the former dyrrachium.
Overnight stay in Tirana
Day 2
Breakfast at the hotel.
In the morning we explore the small town of Kruja, which is inextricably linked to the history of Albania. Prince Skanderbeg, revered as a national hero, is immortalized in the museum of the mountain town of Kruja. You may find some souvenirs on the oriental bazaar!
City History:
In the early Middle Ages, Kruja developed from a medium-sized castle settlement to an urban centre. This is evidenced by artefacts from this period found in graves, which testify to the high social status and wealth of the burials. In the 9th century, the city was the seat of a bishop named David, who is attested as a participant in the Fourth Council of Constantinople.
In 1190 Progon founded the Principality of Arbanon with Kruja Castle as the centre of power. It was the first Principality ruled by an Albanian aristocrat. In 1415 Kruja was conquered by the Ottoman troops commanded by Sultan Mehmed I. In the middle of the 15th century, Skanderbeg and his league of Lezha conquered the city and defended Albania from the fortress against the advancing Ottomans for several decades.
They attacked the castle several times, for example during months of unsuccessful siege in 1450. After the death of Skanderbeg the Turks were able to completely occupy Kruja and Albania in 1478 and to dominate the country for more than 400 years. In the 16th century the bazaar mosque was built, which is still standing today. In 1617 the medieval Kruja was devastated by a strong earthquake.
Sights of interest
The fortress of Kruja is a historical sanctuary for the Albanian nation. The Skanderbeg Museum within the fortress wall, which commemorates the battle of the Albanians under Skanderbeg and his league of Lezha, was conceived by the architect Pranvera Hoxha, the daughter of Enver Hoxha, and is supposed to give the appearance of a medieval stronghold.
Inside the fortress walls there is an ethnographic museum and a Turkish bath. In the lower part of the fortress there are numerous small houses in which families still live. At the foot of the castle hill lies a restored bazaar street, whose buildings date back to the 19th century and reflect the typical architecture of the mountain area.
For tourists visiting the sights of the city there are some hotels, cafés, bars and souvenir shops like no other in Albania. Most visitors arrive for a few hours from Tirana or Durrës or stop briefly on their way through.
On the mountain above the town, in a cave, there is one of the presumed gravesites of Sari Saltik, a saint of the Bektaschi religious order. A mountain range further east is the Qafë Shtama National Park. At the foot of the mountain near Fushë-Kruja are the ruins of the Illyrian site Zgërdhesh.
Back in Tirana we visit the complex of Bunkart, a former nuclear bunker which Enver Hodscha had built to protect from a nuclear strike and which today houses a museum of contemporary history.
Overnight stay in Tirana.
Day 3
Breakfast at the hotel.
Scenic drive to Berat.
Berat's townscape is dominated by the typical Balkan architecture, as can be found in Gjirokastra (South Albania) and Ohrid (Macedonia), for example. In contrast to many other Albanian cities, Berat maintains and preserves tourist attractions and the city centre. Signposts for tourists and an own homepage are still unique in Albania.
The district of Mangelam stretches up the hill to the castle. The houses are very dense and the facades to the valley have all large windows. The part of town has therefore given the city its name "City of a Thousand Windows". The bachelor's mosque, the lead mosque and the king's mosque, as well as the Helveti-Tekke and the Ethnographic Museum, which provides an insight into the way of life in Turkish times, are located in this quarter, which was once inhabited only by Muslims. Nearly at the steepest point of the castle mountain the small Michaels church is sticking over the river. For a long time Gorica was a district that was only connected to the rest of the city by a stone bridge, which is why only little has changed here.
From the height of the castle a wonderful view opens up and in the winding alleys, magnificent churches and mosques testify the changing history.
The Onufri Museum* is dedicated to the most famous Albanian icon painter.
In the afternoon we visit the Greek-Roman excavations of Apollonia!
In ancient times the city was an important port on the Illyrian coast and one of the western starting points of the Via Egnatia to Thessaloniki and Constantinople. Apollonia was founded in the 6th century BC as a Greek colony of Kerkyra with the participation of Corinthian settlers. For Aristotle, Apollonia was an important example where he analyzed the political system of the oligarchy, because the descendants of the Greek colonists controlled the city and ruled over the majority population of Illyrian origins. In 148 Apollonia became part of the Roman province of Macedonia, later the city belonged to the province of Epirus.
The decline of the trading centre, which flourished in Roman times, began in the 3rd century, when an earthquake changed the course of the Vjosa river and the port of Apollonia was silted up.
In the 14th century, a monastery dedicated to the Virgin Mary was built in the ancient city area. Today, the ancient finds recovered from archaeological excavations are exhibited in its walls. Part of the finds can also be found in the archaeological museum of the capital Tirana. During the turmoil caused by the collapse of the communist regime in Albania in 1990, the archaeological collection of Apollonia was plundered. Over a longer period of time there were also robbery excavations on the area of the ruins.
The day's destination is Vlora, where the independence of Albania was proclaimed in 1912.
Overnight stay in Vlora.
Day 4
Breakfast at the hotel.
Vlora is the third largest city in the country. The bay of Vlora and the nearby beaches are popular destinations for tourists. The city centre is about one kilometre away from the sea. However, the inner city and the port of Skela have grown together since decades. Skela is also home of important institutions such as the university and the football stadium.
The recent history of the city has repeatedly been of great importance for whole Albania. Until early 1914, Vlora was the residence of the country's first provisional government. In December of the same year, Italian troops occupied the port city. With the help of this base, Italy controlled the southern exit of the Adriatic Sea. In 1920 the Italian troops were forced to retreat by an Albanian riot. From 1939 to 1943, the city was once again occupied by Italy, and the submarine port on the offshore island of Sazan was the reason for the Allies' bombing of the port and city during the Second World War. After the war there were hardly any buildings from the Ottoman period left. From 1956 until Albania's political break with Moscow in 1961, the Soviet Union maintained a naval base in Pashaliman at the southwestern end of the bay. In the 1950s, this was the only Soviet military base in the Mediterranean region. More recently, the attention of the whole world has been focused on Vlora when, in January/February 1997, the riots that led to the overthrow of the government and anarchy spread all over Albania.
From the 2000s onwards, the political situation in the city improved enormously and numerous hotels, restaurants, bars and discotheques were established. Today Vlora is the tourist centre of southern Albania. Especially summer tourism has become an important branch of the coastal town's economy. But other sectors, particularly in the energy sector, are now also providing more jobs.
Visit to the Independence Museum of Vlora, seat of the first Prime Minister of Albania. The building in which the museum is housed was built at the beginning of the 20th century. In 1913 it served as a government building for six months, after Ismail Qemali (1844-1919), Albania's first prime minister, had returned from Western Europe and moved into quarters there. On 28 November 1913, the first anniversary of independence was celebrated here. The museum has a large collection of historical artifacts. Ismail Qemali's office and the Provisional Government's conference room were recreated in the original rooms. The original declaration of independence is in the office.
Afterwards a short city tour. The old Muradie mosque and the Neshad-Pascha mosque are impressive. We see the Monument of Independence and the Town Hall. From the height of the fortress Kanina you have a beautiful view over the city.
In the afternoon we reach the quiet village of Zvernec after a short drive. In the middle of a quiet lagoon and only accessible via a wooden bridge, the monastery of St. Mary is situated picturesquely on a small island in the middle of a pine grove.
Overnight stay in Vlora
Day 5
Breakfast at the hotel.
The drive from Vlora to Saranda is extremely attractive. The road winds its way along the picturesque coastline; from the height of the Llogara Pass there are magnificent views.
In the bay of Porto Palermo we can see the charming fortress of Ali Pasha from the 19th century, which is situated on a peninsula and can only be reached by boat. The fortress was first mentioned long before Ali Pasha was born: It is shown on a Venetian map from 1718 and probably belonged to the Corfiot family Gonemi. A rectangular tower above the later entrance was the oldest part of the complex. In 1800, Ali Pasha conquered Butrint from the French, who controlled the area for two years. Ali Pasha renewed the fortress; he controlled Butrint until his assassination in 1822, after which the fortress fell to the Ottoman army.
At the end of the bay the mighty submarine and naval bases of the Hodscha period are located. Late afternoon arrival in Saranda and visit of the centre with the remains of the "synagogue". Check-in and free time.
Overnight stay in Saranda
Day 6
Breakfast at the hotel.
Afterwards we visit the excavations of Butrint (20km south of Saranda) in a charming location between the lagoon and the Ionian Sea. In Butrint, many cultures left their traces, but on the other hand they were also influenced by Butrint. Butrint appears in the works of famous antique authors such as Hekataios of Miletus or the Aeneis of Vergil. As the urban centre of a wide region, it became rich and powerful, including the numerous secular and magnificent buildings, streets and fortifications. The combination of its tranquil surroundings on a lagoon and its historical monuments also attracted Grand Tourists of the 18th and 19th centuries, who called it a landscape of monuments. Among others, Edward Lear visited the historic site to be inspired by it.
Butrint is one of Albania's most popular tourist destinations and one of the country's most famous sights. It was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1992.
The most important archaeological sites from the ancient world include the Dionysus Altar, the Asklepios Temple, the Minerva Temple, the Nymphaeum, a thermal spa, a gymnasium, the Forum, an aqueduct, the Lion Gate and the Baptistery from the 5th century.
The best-preserved building is the semi-circular theatre. It's right below the Acropolis. Next to it stands the temple of Asklepios. The theatre was built in the 3rd century B. C. in Greek style, possibly on the walls of an older and smaller theatre. The seats were arranged in hierarchical order; the lowermost seats, and thus the ones closest to the stage, belonged to the higher classes of the city. This is best illustrated by the many footrests in this row, which are decorated with lion motifs.
Luigi Maria Ugolini excavated the theatre between 1928 and 1930. The goddess of Butrint, a statue from the front of the stage building, was also one of his finds.
In the afternoon drive to the picturesque beach of Ksamil, where we have time to relax.
Overnight stay in Butrint.
Day 7
Breakfast at the hotel.
Today we visit Gjirokastra, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2005. It is one of the oldest cities in the country and an important cultural centre of southern Albania.
The city is the birthplace of the former dictator Enver Hoxha and the most famous Albanian author Ismail Kadare. The "City of Stones", as it is often called, the name could not be more ambiguous. Countless stone-covered roofs await us in the city where Enver Hodscha was born. Its "Stone Age Communism" was even suspicious for the Soviet Union. Arrived on the castle hill we enjoy the wonderful view over mosques and churches. Optional visit to the Ethnographic Museum.
The destination of the day is Durres, Albania's largest port city.
Durres is Albania's most important seaport. The city has over 200,000 inhabitants and is the administrative seat of the authorities of the same name prefecture and district. Durres is located on the shoreline of the Adriatic Sea, about 40 kilometres west of Tirana. The historic site was trapped between the sea, a long swampy plain and a small chain of hills stretching northwards between the plain and the sea.
City history:
Durres was founded in 627 BC as Epidamnos by colonists from Corinth and Corfu. The Roman Dyrrhachion was an important city as a starting point of the Via Egnatia, which connected the eastern Adriatic with Byzantium (later Constantinople). In 312 the Greek colony was taken by the Illyrian Taulantians. It is still unclear whether Epidamnos and Dyrrachion were two different settlements or whether the Romans sought another name for the epidamnos, which did not promise good fortune in their ears. In the year 48 BC, a great battle between Caesar and Pompeius took place just south of Durres. In the Middle Ages, Durres was for a long time under the rule of Byzantium, whose most important city on the Adriatic and Ionian coasts it was. The Normans tried several times to take possession of the city. In 1204 the city came under the rule of the Republic of Venice for the first time; since 1220 it belonged to the Despotat Epirus and since 1271 to the Kingdom of Naples, in 1367 Charles Thopia became Lord of Durres, his son Gjergj passed the city to the Venetians in 1392. In 1501, these Durres had to cede to the Ottomans. From Venetian times, parts of the city wall and several of its towers have been preserved.
In 1914 Durres was Albania's capital for a short time, when the German prince Wilhelm zu Wied was Prince of Albania for six months. When Albania's independence was restored after the First World War, Tirana was declared the new capital.
Many Italian-style houses built in the first half of the 20th century still dominate the townscape in the centre. On a hill overlooking the city, a villa thrones, which was used as a summer residence by the later king Ahmed Zogu.
After the collapse of communism in 1991, the city has changed dramatically. Durres attracted many inhabitants from rural areas in the north of Albania (urban exodus) who settled on the outskirts of the city in scarcely developed areas. The port was gradually adapted to the new needs of many ferries. Along the beaches, numerous hotels and apartments as well as restaurants were built.
Since 1997, foreign military troops have been stationed on a stretch of beach at Durres Bay. Initially, they had the task of guaranteeing peace and order in Albania. In 1999 the base was used by NATO during the Kosovo war, since then it is the KFOR base. The NATO base "CommWest" is located directly on the road to the south.
Amphitheatre:
The biggest attraction in Durres is the amphitheatre, which was only rediscovered by chance in the 20th century when a wine cellar was built. At that time, an underground cavity was discovered which was used as access to the amphitheatre. The entire area was then uncovered. A chapel with an impressive mosaic was discovered among the audience. The amphitheatre can be visited today. Other remains of Roman times (pillars, walls) are not accessible.
Numerous findings of the area are shown in the local archaeological museum.
Overnight stay in Durres.
Tag 8
Mirupafshim! Goodbye! Goodbye!
After breakfast, free time at your leisure until transfer to the airport for the return flight.